Tuesday, January 7, 2020

Christmas 2019: Bali!

For Christmas 2019 we took our family to Bali! It was a really happy and satisfying trip, it also took lots of research and planning. Now we are back and unpacked I thought I would type down some details about what we did and how it went. In summary: We are looking forward to doing it again and our family is missing Bali already!


Who went on the trip?

Ten people in total - Our family of four (My husband, myself, daughter 6, son 3.5), My sister’s family of five (My sister, her husband, daughter one – 12, daughter two – 10, daughter three – 4) and my mother (mid 60s).

Why did you decide to go overseas for Christmas?
A few reasons, I guess. We have lost some family members in the last few years and other family members have moved away – too far to really make a fun Christmas day with us driving all around Sydney for short stops at many houses. Our kids are a little bigger and I was already twitching at the mental load of Christmas after a hectic end to the school year (both as a mother and a teacher) – I wanted to opt out for one Christmas and try something else.  

When did you start planning?
We started planning in Easter 2019, giving us approx. 9 months of making arrangements. That meant we had plenty of choice, some discounts for booking ahead, lots of time to discuss and also time to change our minds.


What’s the Bali weather like at Christmas?
It’s the wet season though it only rained twice in the ten days that we were there. It was very hot, particularly early in the afternoon – the weather apps are generally inaccurate. All of the shops are open til 10pm and food even later, so it’s fine to rest in the afternoon then head out again when the heat has calmed and rain has passed.

How long did you go for?
We went for ten days, and it was perfect for our group. The last day we stayed in an airport hotel closer to the airport for a few hours as Bali is notorious for traffic jams, it gave us time to repack and relax before our night flight home.

When did you go?
It’s really good to look up school holidays and plan to travel just before they start, it’s generally 15-20% cheaper to fly.
We left on the 18th of December 2019, which is the last day of Public School for the year in NSW. It’s (pretty much) the last day of ‘cheaper airfares’ before the Christmas rush begins.
We flew home on the 28th of December which was a great idea for our family as it’s a very quiet time to travel, making tickets cheaper (lots of people are flying in to Bali for New Year at this time rather than back to Australia).
Bali fills up for New Years Eve and traffic gets even more hectic, so it was the right time for our family to leave.

Who did you fly with?
We flew there on Jetstar as upon booking they had an amazing points deal where you could fly SYD-DPS for 20,000 Qantas points per person. The flight was on time and no trouble.
Flying home we flew Qantas, and there were lots of extra Economy seats to spread across for rest. Most flights to Sydney from Denpasar leave late at night, arriving in Sydney very early in the morning (I think Virgin might do a day flight).

Image result for Villa Jempiring
Villa Jempiring - Phinisi Villas, it was all ours.

How did you decide where to stay? Hotel or Villa?
I started looking at villas as I wanted our whole family to stay together, and I also wanted a large pool for the five kids. Also on my wish list was a seperate area for my Mum to escape to if she needed a break, but I wasn’t sure if that was realistic.
I started searching Air BnB and Bali Family Villas and quite quickly came across Villa Jempiring – Phinisi Villas in Seminyak. It had a massive pool with a large shallow area, and I couldn’t believe there was a separate one-bed villa (with bathroom) on the other side of the pool for mum!
Once I read reviews and also learned that the villa was 100m to the beach and just a block away from the main shopping area my decision was made, we booked through Air Bnb.
I decided to book with Air Bnb as they are a safeguard if things went wrong – not everything in Bali is as perfect as shown online. We were able to pay in installments and there were cancellation options. If we were also not satisfied with the property there were credible ways of reporting problems and having matters resolved, this happened to my friend that arrived in Bali a few days after us and she was given a 50% discount with the option of leaving with a full refund.

That said, our nannies recommended the following hotels for those traveling with children:
-       Grand Mirage
-       Padma (this would probably be my hotel choice)
-       Bali Dynasty
-       Hard Rock


Our living area.


What are the best things about staying in a Villa?
I really liked everybody being together. Each bedroom had its own bathroom and it was handy to have a fridge for beer (even the non-beer drinkers seemed to be drinking beer in the hot weather!) and a freezer for ice blocks (Zooper Doopers for the kiddos). Also having living space was terrific if you woke up early in the morning or were up late at night and just wanted to go somewhere to hang out and read. WiFi was also very reliable, faster than Sydney.
Our Villa manager Ketut cooked us breakfast each morning for A$5 per person (yes, this is true) and it included pancakes, omelettes, Nasi Goreng and fresh local fruit. It was also cheaper than eating locally. I was most thankful that Ketut is an excellent cook, he also prepared a special family recipe I had brought from Sydney for our Christmas Eve dinner.
It was easy just having the pool straight there instead of having to ‘get ready’ and walk to the pool like you would in a hotel, there was many mornings where my son was swimming naked in the pool before breakfast! I would often take a quick late-night dip once the kids were asleep and I was pretty much right outside their window. It was a relief having less concern about disturbing other guests and lost property! 

The best moment of Cohle's life to date - thanks Ati!
  
Did you get Nannies?
Yes – from Bali’s Best Babysitting, which is an Australian agency. At approx. A$60 per day (total for 2 kids) it was super to have an extra pair of hands. They were also SO GOOD at helping with everyday situations such as the best way to walk to the beach, good places to shop, food recommendations. My 3yo son loved his Nanny Ati, and I would easily do it again. They prepared food for the kids, packed bags and made sure sunscreen was on. Ati also did all of the tiresome stuff, like watch my son jump off a diving board forty-plus times. I also want to shout out to my sister's Nanny Ria who was an angel at getting the kids to sleep and showed us some pressure point massage to help the kids relax. My sister even went to visit Ria's village one day, where they make their own coconut oil! Towards the end of the trip Ati took Cohle on a local scooter ride when the roads were quiet and it was easily the highlight of his trip!

Christmas morning at the villa.

Do you have any tips for spending Christmas in Bali with Children?
Having small children and a large group made me want to make this trip as easy as possible. Key to this is traffic gets quite bad in Bali over Christmas and New Year, so we tried to keep things local and central to where we were staying. Many of the activities we did were within walking distance to our villa, and Bluebird taxis were quite easy to get at the end of our street. Many ‘cheaper’ villas are located in areas where you must use transport and it’s worthwhile factoring this in (along with traffic snarls) when planning.
You need to take Christmas presents for the kids with you, there is not much in the way of toy shops (or even much for kids) in Bali – unless you like buying them candy. I found a last-minute emergency present at the Carrefour Supermarket but it was definitely western+ prices.

What are some family-friendly experiences that you had in Bali?
I think it’s fair to say the whole family had an amazing time with the activities we did – it came in well above expectations. Many activities were in walking distance of our villa and everyone really enjoyed themselves. We booked most of our activities from Sydney so we could enjoy our time once in Bali. We booked a driver with our villa. I should also mention it's also worthwhile having Whatsapp at the ready as this is the way the majority of people (and businesses) communicate.


Waterbom Water Park
I’m not sure what I was expecting but this was one of the cleanest and most organised set-ups of our trip, ensuring everyone had a terrific day! If you are in a group I thoroughly recommend hiring a ‘Private Family Gazebo’ which had a bunch of inclusions with the booking (including express entry, lunch, unlimited soft-drinks and hair-braiding/massage)!
Everyone loved the Lazy River, the Kids Pool set-up kept them busy for most of the day and it was lovely just hanging out in the gazebo with a book then having a go on some of the more challenging waterslides!
It would be near the top of my list for our next Bali trip!
The Sofitel at Nusa Dua was five-star perfection.

Brunch at Cucina Sofitel Bali – Nusa Dua
We were curious about the East Coast of Bali as the beaches are more beautiful and it tends to be a bit more of a ‘resort area’ – quite often from Australia you can get heavily discounted deals to this part of Bali.
We heard the 5-star Sofitel had a brunch deal (with unlimited alcohol, my sister and I managed to get a few quick roses in) where you could also swim in the hotel pools and at their beach afterwards. To sum up IT WAS SUBLIME.
The buffet was amongst the best I’ve ever had (up there with the Mandarin Oriental in Singapore and that tells you something!) the pool area was so clean and relaxing, not to mention the beautiful luxury bathrooms! I’ll definitely be looking up deals here in future, we also got to walk down the beach past four other similar resorts so I highly recommend doing this if you want to scope out the area.
One thing I would add is the brunch was rather difficult to book? (I’m not sure why!) So email the resort directly and prepare for numerous responses before all is confirmed.
The 6m diving board next time... right kids?

Day at Mrs Sippy Pool Club
I was worried the kids were going to get bored but this turned out to be one of their favourite days!! There are so many Beach / Pool clubs to pick from in Bali but the big clincher for us (being a group of 10) was that we wanted to book a cabana / daybed ahead so we were in a good spot and were not split up. Mrs Sippy were one of the few in our area that would allow us to do this, so it chose us really. Such a fun day!!
There was a minimum spend on food and drink for the daybeds / cabanas (about $50 a person) and it was hard for us to achieve this – we really should have checked in on our spend throughout the day and then we could have started buying buckets of cocktails / top shelf spirits and  finished the day off a bit drunk!
But the highlight was my son Cohle, jumping off the 3m diving board at least forty times. He wanted to try the 6m diving board but he wasn’t allowed. God help us!

By the end of this day she was rise-trotting with her arms in the air!

Bali Equestrian Centre Day Camp
This was an awesome option for our kids, it ran from 9am-4pm and by the end of the day my daughter was trotting along with her hands in the air off the saddle! You can’t put a price on the smiles and delight... and there was also a lovely pool (and restaurant) at the Bali Equestrian Centre (all for the price of a one-hour trail ride in Sydney) - I stayed for the day as some of the girls were worried they were sick but they were fine and I really didn’t need to. The centre is European-owned and it feels like you are in a film. Most of the other kids attending were local expat kids. Another excellent day in Bali! It’s world class!

There was also an amazing pool at the Equestrian Centre and not a single horse smell anywhere!

Did you have any amazing meals that you recommend?
Yes plenty! I have to say we did not eat much local street food, and it might have been different if getting sick wasn’t going to impact so many others. Our villa Manager Ketut cooked us some incredible Nasi Goreng with sambal and Chicken Sate at our request, so we didn’t really feel like we were missing out. I also recommend the fresh young coconuts for drinking, they are just so sweet and are available everywhere!

Revolver Coffee
One of the unexpected benefits of our villa was ending up so close to a decent coffee shop. With the three-hour time difference (and kids!) coffee was still an important start to the day and Revolver was a pleasant five-minute walk away. I believe it's Melbourne-owned.
The view from Barbacoa, not joking!

Barbacoa
I looked up many a ‘best eating in Bali’ list early on in the planning stage and picked Barbacoa as the menu seemed to suit so many in our group - it also has an amazing view of a rice paddy at the back. It’s basically Sydney’s Rockpool Bar and Grill, with even better sides and salads. I wasn’t sorry we ordered the liquid Nitrogen dessert, either! Extra points that it was a lovely space that was also easy to hear each other in. Would definitely return, I’m actually a bit sorry we didn’t go back for Christmas Day, the lamb chops were perfecto.


Motel Mexicola
I didn’t really get to drink to my heart’s content this trip but this place definitely had the best cocktails I tasted in Bali. We were there so early (had kids with us) but you could see this place could get rockin’ later on, which I would have enjoyed! The food was also very very good (the calamari, the tostadas, I wish I had a chance to try dessert but the kids wanted to leave…) Very cool merchandise too, so I picked up a t-shirt for the gym. A big yes from me, and I’d love to visit their pool club Tropicola next time in Bali (again, best without kids…)

Potatohead was a sight to see!

Potatohead
Just go, this place is an all-round experience. It’s like a 2010’s (2020’s?) version of a super club. We just went for an early-ish dinner but everybody in the group (including my mother) just couldn’t get over this place. It’s just slap-in-your-face amazing in terms of size, the pool, the bars and the music was great. The pizza was also yum YUM. Would definitely go back. Balmy sunset, ocean breeze. Unique and luxurious with a bit of quirk!

La Lucciola was a beautiful way to end our trip and take stock of how good it all was!

La Lucciola
This is apparently a long-time local favourite and once there it’s easy to see why. We almost didn’t go as my husband doesn’t eat much seafood (the best description of the menu is Italian-seafood), but it was walking distance from our villa and offered a lovely quiet meal while watching the famous Bali sunset. It’s hard to book online so we got our villa manager to call, and we got one of the best tables in the restaurant. Try and get a spot up on the balcony. I had a wonderful soft-shell crab pasta and the bread was so good we asked for a second basket. Beautiful Balinese-inspired dessert too.

We did a day visit to a village near Ubud.

Did you go on any tours?
Yes, we only went on one, mainly because of the age of our kids. We booked a Bali Buddies ‘Village Experience’ Tour from Sydney and the only thing I wish is that we had organised it for earlier in our trip!
It really gave us insight into the Balinese way of life – we were shown around a village, a family rice field and we were taken to a waterfall for a purification ceremony. As it turned out we went along on an auspicious day, the ‘day of the black moon’ so it was really special to line up with so many local Hindu people to receive a blessing. We also had delicious local sweets (pandan pancakes, local fruits and fresh coconuts) and the leftovers were devoured as soon as we returned to our villa! I’ll definitely do it again when my daughter is older and the host Eric is just a lovable person!

Is there anything you wouldn’t do again?
We went to a place called the Pirates Bay when we were in Nusa Dua, which is meant to be a kids treasure hunt. The website is particularly impressive! But I wouldn’t go again – it wasn’t well organised and felt a bit like a money trap. It was really hot as well. Our nannies told us it used to be better but it has sort of gone downhill. That said, our 3yo son got to zipline and he has talked about it every day since. I just think they have to work a few things out.


Cousins at Candyland.

What about shopping?
Shopping is everywhere and I’d say to plan in advance because you are never going to see it all. Market shopping wasn’t that appealing to me but here are a few places I really enjoyed:

Fabrik - Canggu
I actually stopped the driver here on the way home from the Equestrian Centre (haha how middle-class does that sound) as I have been following this label on Instagram for two years. They are local and ethical, and a dress is about A$150-A$200 so not a bargain – that said I have already worn my dress twice in the week we have gotten home. So, not a waste.

Geneva Handicrafts
A workmate who has been going to Bali for 20 years (Hi Marg!) recommended this fixed-price place, largely because it is two (or three) floors of Balinese handicraft shopping at ridiculous prices. It also gives you a feel for what markets SHOULD be selling their products for.  Anything you imagine – homewares, fridge magnets, t-shirts, candles, soaps just everything – is sold here. It’s a real find, particularly if you have kids and they want to take lots of presents home (lots of items for A$1-$2).

Leather stores – Everywhere
Check them out for work or casual shoes, many do made-to-measure. If you like ‘St. Agni’ style shoes well Bali is for you, ‘their shoes’ are everywhere!

Chemists (Apotek) for ‘Ellips hair treatment’
As I am 41 my hair turns to fuzzy straw in the Bali humidity. If you are in this situation you need to look for ‘Ellips’ hair vitamin capsules at the chemist (it’s something like A$2 for 8 capsules) and my hair is as silky as when I was 20! You just rub a little capsule through your wet hair after a shower. I bought a whole heap at the airport on the way back home for gifts, I’m converted for life! It’s a Balinese brand so very easy to find.

How did you go with bargaining?
I went for a quick walk along Double 6 (a shopping area) after lunch on Christmas Day to grab a few things and I didn’t find bargaining intimidating at all. You basically ask a price, offer half, then come to an agreement at somewhere of 60-80% of asking price. It was fine and if you aren’t intense, neither is the shop keeper!

Fake (everything)
OK, this is hard. It’s everywhere, it really comes down to what sort of quality fake you would wish to buy. I was actually stunned at the range of fake products and now realise that three suburbs over from where I live in Sydney there are many, many people wearing fake Balenciaga slides and Supreme t-shirts! Even my nanny turned up one day wearing a fake Balmain T-Shirt (ok, I was sort of jealous about that one!)
In central Seminyak alone there were three higher-quality (as in hard-to-tell) ‘fake’ shops (oh I could list the brands but it would be too long) and that is before market stores where it is much easier to say straight up ‘that’s a fake.’
The most popular item is the fake Gucci double ‘G’ belt, which the cheapest I saw was for 15 Australian dollars. Each to their own but yes, fakes are easy to find!



Decorated Ganesha for 'the day of the black moon.'

What did you use to plan?
Nothing fancy, I set up a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet and used the share function so my family could also access it. I also joined the Facebook Group 'Bali Groupies' and there were fresh tips there daily!

What would you like to do in Bali next time?
I’d really like to check out more of Canggu as it was on our list this time and just seemed to fall off our plan as we got busy.
I also would like to head down to Uluwatu and Jimbaran to take it in and maybe visit some beach clubs in the area – even finding a villa there for a few days might be a good way to spend time there.
I'd certainly consider finding cheaper accommodation and staying longer...
Shopping was my last priority this time as I was looking out and organising for people, I realised upon coming home that I had missed out on quite a few items I thought I would have grabbed along the way. Next time I will get a whole day (ok maybe a half day) for myself and just go for it, mainly so I’m not distracted and constantly thinking ‘oh yeah, I’ll get it done a bit later.’ Even after dinner at night is good when everything is still open and it’s cooled down a bit, I just never seemed to get it done!
As the kids grow I’d like to do more tours but I’m not actually that keen to do a lot of remote stuff – I get travel sick and the winding (and often dodgy) roads make me feel awful, it often takes me hours to recover.

Terima Kasih, Bali - We love you!


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