With months of planning behind us I was almost reluctant to set out on this trip - I wasn't sure if Mark would like Bali, I didn't know if we would get good value for money, or if the weather would be any good. As it turns out, we have have come at an excellent time (just outside of the high season), it has been sunny and thirty degrees every day and our villa has been well, beyond luxurious belief.
Arriving at Denpasar airport was a bit of a shock to the system, but provides excellent material for a film set. People herd themselves every which way beneath hopeless ceiling fans slicing thick air, families sweat in long queues and argue over money exchange and 'being ripped off.' A gamelan (a sort of Indonesian xylophone) plucks away in the background, grating and jangling tired and uncertain nerves.
All of the 'new airport security equipment' (eye and fingerprint devices) were on display but were not being used, and our immigration official bopped away to music coming from his mobile phone while he moved at a snails pace processing passports. Mark diligently attempted to declare goods at customs but the line was so long and disorganised that people were just being waved through in any which line by security; my suitcase went through an x-ray machine that was seemingly being watched by nobody. But then we were through and our honeymoon could begin!
Our driver was waiting to take us to 'Villa Air,' where we had booked a one-bedroom villa for three nights. We had our own private pool and gardens, a 4 poster bed with chiffon curtains, a spa bath, double basins and a waterfall in our (outdoor) bathroom as well as an outdoor kitchen and lounge, all covered by a big bali hut. I tell you, it's going to hurt leaving! (Which we are doing, today.) Every day we have had a 90 minute spa treatment, as well as afternoon tea and breakfast served to us in our villa. Spoiled!
Our villa living area (yes, that's our pool in the background!)
Our bedroom (with outdoor bathroom through the doors.)
Our beautiful outdoor bathroom (oh how I hope to have double basins in real life one day!)The next day we went on a 6 hour tour with a driver and unfortunately I was pretty carsick for a lot of the time. We went to a monkey park where they climbed all over us and we got photos, a beautiful temple (still dont really understand temples) and a big rice paddy field - the Tegallalang Rice Terrace? (which was absolutely gorgeous but I was pretty much vomiting by this stage so couldn't really enjoy it). Then we visited the Agro Wisata Coffee Farm where I got to try the famous 'luwak?' coffee (you know, the one where the beans pass through the animal first.) Needless to say, Mark was disgusted.
Part of me really wanted to 'get into town' to see everything however I'm glad we let our driver take us to these different places because once we did go into the shopping district I was pretty confronted and disappointed.
That night we ate at 'Sarong' restaurant, apparently one of the best in Bali, and I laughed once I read the chef is ex-Jimmy Liks and Longrain in Sydney. So yes, it tasted very familiar to us and the food was great, for say a 30% cheaper price than Sydney. I particularly enjoyed eating one of my favourite dishes, 'murtabak,' which I have not been able to find in Sydney, and have not eaten since about 2005! So yes, I was very excited about that.
The beautiful Sarong Restaurant.I have been thinking about the shopping thing alot; yesterday we walked down the main street of Seminyak where there are a whole row of shops selling all sorts of 'trendy' fashion but it wasn't nearly as sophisticated as I was expecting (oops, snob me.) Sure, items were cheaper and I think that this is perhaps the main reason why people go shopping crazy in Bali. I'm pleased to say I don't really need much right now, and once I really thought about it I realised I didn't need to buy anything! That said, if I was decorating a large house and had a huge suitcase (or shipping container) I wouldn't hesitate in combing over the shops.
I suppose I would need more time (and probably a good shopping mate) to enjoy the shopping a little more. Mark and I walked around but did I really need another flowing jersey top or beaded pair of sandals? It was very hot so we though we should at least take a walk down by the beach, but we had much trouble finding access as we bravely walked around the gangs (backstreets) of Legian looking for a spot to walk down the beach.
So we found the beach, and the beach was... ugly. I closed my eyes and thanked the stars that I hadn't dragged poor Mark to one of these 'resorts' that line the beach. It would be good for some, but represented everything we are not. People drinking down on the beach, piles of rubbish, dirty looking water and the sun beating down. People were touting for anything and everything, and there was also a few beggars about (lucky I have lots of practice doing the 'Eastern Suburbs stare, where I can look straight past people) and loud, pasty, overweight Australian families lying on rows and rows of sunlounges.
So we ate some satay and a burger and quickly jumped back into a cab to head back to our own little piece of paradise - our villa. And I think this is what makes the ideal Bali Holiday - getting some books and reading material together, packing a bag with next to nothing, and enjoying the comfort, relaxation and hospitality of a villa. Last night we had our own 'celebration dinner' in a little hut, 4 courses all included in our villa price. 80s power love-ballads played and candles were lit, it was just so lovely relaxing together and thinking about the future, without the madness and traffic of the town.
Our little dining area.Some things you might need to know about visiting Bali:
- Don't pack anything too fancy - it's simply too hot. You barely need more than a swimming costume and a few cotton dresses. That said, the Balinese prefer a little modesty (i.e. sleeves) and it's been awful seeing some of the Aussies move about town in next to nothing.
- Same goes for makeup - just forget it.
- Tipping isn't expected which is refreshing, but people are paid so poorly it doesn't hurt to give a tip here and there (we gave our driver a $20 tip for a 6 hour tour and we are now seemingly friends for life.)
- It is cheap here. Apparently not as cheap as in the past, but Mark and I have barely spent $500 in 4 days, and this includes alcohol and eating in fancy restaurants. It has been terrible watching people haggle over such little prices (I saw an English teenager rudely haggle over a $12 pair of sandals, ugly) and I think it's nice to show some restraint here. People are constantly talking about money and what things cost, when at the end of the day...
- I think the ideal Bali trip would be to travel around Bali without doing Kuta / Legian etc. at all. It seems to bring out the worst in people and left me cringeing and wondering what the hell Australia has done to Bali and its culture. The loud drunk Bogan thing was definitely going on and I think it's fair to say that I would stay away from these people at home so I am best staying away from them on holiday!
Today we head to our next destination - 4 nights in Ubud. I'll let you know how it goes!
