Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Singapore.

Hello Singapore morning!
I felt a bit hesitant telling people I was taking a holiday in Singapore, it's not most people's first idea when they are thinking holiday! But there were frequent flyer points to spend and corporate hotel rates to be had, and Mark enjoyed a conference there last year... so we decided to take the big unspoken babymoon in a nice, safe, clean country with centrally located healthcare (how very grown up of us) - and we had a wonderful time!

To start out, I have a bit of a history with Singapore, as does my family. In the 1970s my Mum and Dad lived in Malaysia while my Dad worked, and Singapore was the logical destination to 'take a break' or access services. In fact, I think it may have been discussed that it was an option that I could be born there, but Mum came back home to Sydney for that (I understand Mum actually went into labour just hours after getting off the plane? Richards family myth?) Anyway, I have always had little reminders of Singapore in my life, like my love of spicy food and the small gold trinkets Dad's workmates bought for me when I was born.

Then in my early 20s I thought I was moving back and made two trips over to check it out for myself. With hindsight, the whole thing not working out was the best possible thing to happen, although I did have jangly nerves and a heavy heart the last time I departed Singapore. How life has turned since then!

I was so worried I would end up despising the place for life and just passing through would bring back the trauma! But never mind about that because this time Singapore, all was forgiven. What did we get up to? What were my thoughts on the place?

The Marina Bay Sands.
First we stayed at the Marina Bay Sands, a huge hotel / casino consisting of three towers and the world famous pool on the roof. The pool is infact the best and worst thing about the hotel, as anyone can visit to take photos and swim and this results in big tourist crush! We still enjoyed the beautiful views from our large room (probably bigger than our Sydney apartment, but that's not hard) on the 48th floor (we got lucky there) - the room service samosas were particularly tasty!


 There is no such thing as a holiday without holiday reading!
 Another view from our room.
We were very lucky to have clear weather for most of our trip, something I have not really every experienced during other trips to Singapore. That meant lots of nice photos and refreshing daytime swims under blue skies!

First, Singapore is now as expensive as Sydney, if not more expensive - the exception being cheap cabs and trains (oh to have an MRT in Sydney!) So no real shopping to be had, not much. I was glad to go to H&M and find the maternity section where they had a great sale rack, where I scored a few things under $20. I'm 26 weeks now and I'm definitely turning to the stretchy things for comfort.

I couldn't help but notice (like other places I have visited) that the rich are getting richer and the everyday people are holding their ground, if not sliding a bit. Singapore does a great job of keeping things clean, and as there is no minimum wage, it seems that everyone is in a job and maintains a sense of dignity.
But the rich... window after window in shopping centre after shopping centre there were $50,000 watches and multi-carat diamond jewellery. Serious stuff that gets tiring very quickly! The whole prestige thing at this level wears thin with me, one could say this factor contributes to the whole 'soul-less' nature and impression of Singapore.

But lucky for us I found some guides (thanks Design Sponge!) so we could check out a few pockets of interesting along the way, we were taking a short break after all and it doesn't take alot to entertain us. Our first stop was a store called Books Actually at No. 9 Yong Siak Street, Tiong Bahru (a $5 taxi ride from anywhere really).
Another helpful guide to the 'new Singapore' can be found here.

Yong Siak Street appears to be one of the new 'cool places' to visit in Singapore, I really hope it continues to build and grow. The store had authentic character, with a fantastic room out the back full of vintage Asian items. It was worth a good half-hour of browsing. Yong Siak Street might not match Sydney's King Street or Melbourne's Brunswick Street quite yet, but the fresh excitement is palpable.
We also visited 40 Hands Coffee just across the street afterwards for some yummy snacks and reading time.

The wonderful Books Actually.


Vintage Asian Glassware - we drank out of Anchor Beer glasses (on the right) at home for years, little did I know that they are now reselling for S$38 each! Amazing!
Vintage PEZ dispensers at Books Actually.
Mark checks out the reading selection.


Woods in the Books, a children's bookstore also located in Yong Siak Street.

Cool hunting aside, we decided to get down to some real tourist business. First stop was the Singapore Zoo.
We booked tickets online and went for the Orangutan's Breakfast. Bus trip, breakfast and hanging out with the Orangutans was the same price as just paying for entry at Sydney's Taronga Zoo, so it was excellent value!

Cocky friends, all around the world :)
Meerkats! My body shape is beginning to look and feel more this way, I can empathise with this meerkat mum.
Orangutans at breakfast.

We also made a trip to the Botanical Gardens, which is one of my favourite places in Singapore. We watched expat dogs swimming in the fountains, checked out the impressive Orchid displays and sat by the lake watching the turtles. It gets a bit hot but a yummy ice block in the shade can fix that :)

We ran into a lizard friend as we visited the swans.

These lilypads are huge, promise!
The famous bandstand, built in the 1860s. Wouldn't it be great if they opened it up for music events again?







The famous Raffles Hotel.
Of course I wanted to experience something a little special while in Singapore so I took Mark to High Tea one afternoon at Raffles in the Tiffin Room. Treat-wise it was probably the tastiest High Tea I've ever had, Singaporeans sure do know their cakes and pastry! I'm sure Mark thought the most interesting part of the afternoon was that little birds were allowed to fly in and out through the hotel, but either way he endured.
Other eating moments while in Singapore were not quite as exciting or memorable as other times I have visited, although I did discover the lovely tasting kaya. Kaya is a sweet coconut jam that is spread mainly on toast for a snack, I really enjoyed it and brought a jar home to remember the trip - I had no idea that toast is such a big deal in Singapore, there are toast restaurants (even chains of them) all around the place, I'm serious!

We also spent a lovely lunchtime with one of Mark's old work friends Jen, her husband Carlos, son Gabriel and new baby girl Carla! We met at Din Tai Fung and heard all about her experiences as a newish-expat and also as new second-time mum! (I'm getting the sleep diary ready!)

Feeling especially rotund after all those dumplings, or I could just blame the stripey shirt!

I was also hoping to take Mark along to some hawker food stalls ('Food Centres') that I had very much enjoyed when previously visiting Singapore. Sadly, it seems this side of things is beginning to suffer and the 'freshly-prepared' aspect of things especially seems to be lacking - I nearly cried when I saw almost every stall keeping tired-looking food warm in bain maries! It makes me smile to think that we decided to wait to get home to Sydney in order to go and eat our favourite rendang and roti chennai!

The gorgeous TWG Tea Shop at Marina Bay Sands. Fifteen teabags for $30, anyone?
I very much enjoyed this way of carrying around a cup of tea!
Finally, I think Mark and I would both agree that our very favourite part of our trip was our experience at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. I think this is how I imagined hotels would be when I was a little girl. Entering this hotel is like opening a jewel box, all dimly lit with stunning orchids, hushed voices and exotic golden artworks on display.

Yes, it involved an upgrade to the top floor and amazing levels of service - combined with beautiful weather and a luxurious cabana by the pool! I wont say much else because it would be showing off - all I will simply say is, if you ever have the chance, stay at the Mandarin Oriental in Singapore!

The spa - yes, we treated ourselves to massages here!
Possibly the most beautiful pool I have ever had the pleasure of swimming in!

So should you visit Singapore? Definitely! In my heart I know it will lure me back in another few years (it always does!) so treat yourself to a stopover or short break sometime (what a shame Qantas has just made Dubai their hub) and enjoy the hospitality!